Its important for me to work closely with government staff during my time here. Some believe that you should by-pass the state as they are corrupt and incompetent and one should work directly with fishers and private sector but in Africa and in many developing countries the state and the people are very closely interlinked. The significance of history and the long enduring relations between the state and people (fishers in this case) is something that should not be overlooked. The state are the people and the people the state and yes corruption and incompetence prevail and I would also add lashings of apathy but at the heart of many of the problems facing fisheries and natural resources is the issue of governance.
During my first visit in June it was decided that I should have an office in the fishery administration. After some initial blank stares I was put in an office with a very capable man called Mamduh Abdullah Osman. I did not have a desk but this was quickly resolved (within a few days) when one appeared and was hammered together. Unlike many of my peers the office has no AC and the heat particularly in the afternoons was quite something and still is. However, the working day is not very arduous. It starts around 8.30, each office has some comfortable chairs around the walls (a bit of an Arab thing I believe) so rather than have meetings around a table western style we sit around and well talk. Its very sociable and you meet all sorts. My office is next to the stores and licensing so its visited by most fishermen, traders and colleagues from neighbouring institutions. The talking goes on for about an hour or so and then its breakfast. Anyone who has worked in Sudan for any period of time will know that breakfast is an important part of the day which proceeds prays. Breakfast consists of lots of flattened bread and a large bowl of ful (baked kidneys beans mixed with oil into a sauce sometimes with white 'feta' cheese). Its pretty nice and this is shared with anyone who is around - all hands in the bowl style. I was looking for printers the other day and got invited to breakfast in the IT shop. Also Im getting breakfast invites from other organisations so its quite a thing. Breakfast and prays usually take up about an hour and half and then there is a run of work until 2-ish when its time for lunch break which proceeds the end of the working day at 3pm so really anything after 1pm is quite hard to organise. So mornings can be quite frantic when you are trying to get things done and meet people etc to maximise the 3-4 hour day.
It may seem laughable and many donors and staff tell me the government staff are lazy and perhaps they are but wouldn’t you be if you had no budget, no resources, no car, no investments, a rubbish salary and no direction. Sudan is just waiting. My colleague feels that he is wasting his life. He is very smart but has lost hope. For me as an outsider its easy - I come and I go. Hopefully I make a difference, influence someone, change a life but with no support from higher government its becomes very difficult for such changes to endure. Its my greatest challenge sustainability. Check out the photo above of my desk bee put together and tell me if these guys have the resources to manage and develop their fisheries.
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